I entered my heat hopeful, and amped to get tubed. But it didn't really go to plan. I caught one of the bombs of the day but took off a meter too deep and unfortunately couldn't get around the first section. The wave was big and my leash snapped. After losing 12 minutes retrieving my board and another leash I still had time to get back into the heat, but the ocean went flat.
I felt empty. Frustrated and disgusted. Finishing 4th in this round meant my dreams of becoming Uk champ became near impossible. And not only that I also had to endure watching my friends score 10pt rides and getting some of the best barrels of their lives while I was stuck on the shore, powerless. I have never felt so dead inside. I had been waiting for this kind of opportunity for years, if not all my life.
The final was probably the most impressive heat I've seen. It was CT level. Two 10s and two 9s went down in the most perfect waves in the world. So hats off to the boys and congrats Luis Eyre for the win.
Determined to turn this dark day around I decided to paddle out after the contest. The waves were firing and the locals were on it. Luckily I managed to sneak into 5 bombs and caught the best barrels I've had since my trip to the Mentawaiis in 2010. I felt ecstatic, and that was exactly what I needed.
So there it is... From the darkest to the greatest state of being. From depressed to euphoric. From sorrow to bliss.
This is the reason why I'm passionate about this sport, and this is the reason why I live.
Thank you Thurso for giving me a second chance. I hope to be back soon...